Far over the Misty Mountains cold...

 19/5/13

Right, it’s been a month. Soz.                                        

So about a month ago, I went on holiday with Louise and her visiting family. One of the things on my list of Things to Do in Malawi was to climb Mount Mulanje (biggest mountain in Malawi) and so Mary (Louise’s sister), Peter (Louise’s sister’s boyfriend), Louise and I set off for Mulanje. 2 minibuses and 3 hours later we arrived in Mulanje and, after organising our guide and porters and having a quick pizza, we boarded the most cramped minibus Louise and I have ever been on. It was beyond imagination. Here’s how the minibuses are designed to be used:

Here’s how the bus to Likhubula was filled.

And I was the person who had the conductor practically sitting on their lap.

So we finally got to the foot of the mountain, to find our porters and guide waiting for us. We were to stay on the mountain for 2 nights and so each of us had a back pack and hiking rucksack holding our sleeping bags, clothes, cooking equipment and food. The porters took our big rucksacks up and down the mountain for us and thank goodness they did, as we would never have managed it ourselves. So began our first day of climbing. I am not going to lie, it was effing hard. 5ish hours of uphill in the heat, then cold as it got dark. Louise obviously managed absolutely fine because she’s some kind of superhuman, but Peter, Mary and I struggled. The first day was definitely worst. I found I was too busy trying to get my breath back to really enjoy the views or the hike. However, we eventually got to the hut after what felt like forever. The Chambe hut was quaint and cosy, but freezing cold. We cooked dinner over a fire, which took a considerable amount of time, and then crawled into our sleeping bags for the night. As we had arrived at the hut in the dark, the view the next morning was breath-taking.

After an early breakfast, and the experience of using a long drop, we set off for the second hut. This time we had a better idea of what we were in for, but as we were getting higher it started to get wet as we hit the mist. This added the hazard of slipping and cracking your head open on the rock. It is said that J. R. R. Tolkien got his inspiration for the Misty Mountains from the Hobbit when he was in Southern Malawi having scaled Mount Mulanje. It was easy to see why. We couldn’t see any further than 6 feet in front of us in the worst of it; we could have been the only people on earth. We got to Likhubula hut while it was still light, and we endeavoured to explore the surrounding area as our guide had advised us. However, it was so cold and wet (it was raining heavily by this point) that we ended up just spending the afternoon playing Hearts while huddled around the fire. We had another cold night, sleeping in front of the fire this time, before making our descent the next morning. It was even wetter, if possible, and we all had a few falls (except Peter) but we could feel it getting warmer and drier the lower we got. When we got to the main road that afternoon, our guide assured us that there were frequent minibuses that would take us back to Mulanje. However, we needed to get back to Blantyre the same day and, after waiting about an hour for a non-existent minibus, we were getting desperate. In the end, we had to take bicycle taxis back to the town. It was one of the most terrifying things I have ever done. I found that if I tensed all of my muscles and closed my eyes, it made it slightly more bearable. It was exhilarating though, another thing to add to my list of crazy things I’ve done. And we managed to get back to Blantyre that day.

Did I enjoy climbing Mount Mulanje? Not really. But I had a great time with Louise, Mary and Peter and did something I’ve been meaning to do since I got here.

But the adventure didn’t stop there! We were also going to Lake Malawi to spend a night at Cape Maclear and then a night on the picturesque Domwe Island. However, this meant we had to get to Limbe in order to get a bus to Monkey Bay, then another one to Cape Maclear. As we were walking up Blantyre’s highway with all our bags to get our first minibus, a Malawian guy started to tell us that the Polytechnic College students were demonstrating, that they were ‘grabbing things’ and that we should move out the way. It was just then that we to the huge angry mob of students come barrelling up the highway. As soon as they saw us, all of them started chanting AZUNGU at the top of their lungs. A chant that sounds harmless coming out of the village kids’ mouths became absolutely terrifying as we were forced to run up the hill to find refuge from the demonstrators before they grabbed our bags. Many of them were brandishing road signs and bits of bus stands that they had knicked. The guys who had warned us helped us get to a car park and out of sight as the mob passed. There are times that I have felt pretty unsafe in Malawi, but this was one of the worst. Ah well, another experience for me.

We got to Monkey Bay that night (a whole day of travelling) and paid an arm and a leg to get them to take us to Cape Maclear. We were staying at Gecko’s Lounge for only one night, but we’ve vowed that we must go back. It was beautiful, right at the water’s edge; with hammocks and kayaking and boat rides… it’s just such a chilled place.

The next morning we left for Domwe Island. It was amazing. We stayed in tents on little platforms looking out onto the Lake, with hammocks to relax in and a beach for swimming and kayaking. We went up to this rock that is perfect to see the sunset – it was incredible.

We got the boat back to the mainland the next morning, then set off for Lilongwe for Lou, Mary and Peter to head off to Zambia and for me to get a big bus back to Blantyre. I don’t want to go into how we got back to Lilongwe – we basically got ripped off and they refused to give us our money back. It makes me realise how lucky we are in Blantyre to have minibuses everywhere; by the Lake you rely on matolas (pick-up trucks with people in the back) and you never know whether one is going to come along. Anyway, hopefully I’ll never have to rely on them again.

So then I got back to Blantyre and had a week and a half by myself as Louise was on safari. It was actually kind of nice to have the house to myself for a bit. Also I was seeing my other friends a lot as I was at rehearsals most days.

What was that? Rehearsals? What is this? Well, I can finally disclose that for the past month I have been rehearsing for the Lion King. Yes! Fellow PT volunteer Matilda and her roommate Julian work at Nanzikambe Arts and are directing a Chichewan take on the Disney film. I am playing Zazu and Timon and Louise is playing Sarabi. The performance is in 2 weeks so we’re pretty much rehearsing non-stop, but it’s really good fun and I’ve met some really awesome people because of it.

Lots of other stuff has been happening too, but this is already way too long so I’m going to sign off here.

I am past my 8 month mark with about 3 months to go. It’s all seeming really soon, but I am looking forward to seeing everyone again.

Stay well! 

TTFN

Apparently I am doing a monthly blog - it's April now

7/4/13

Eeeee, when did I last clock in? 10/3/13? Okay, what’s happened since then?

Well, it’s the school holidays at the moment, so there’s been no Nama Simba for two weeks. This unfortunately coincided with our Project Trust Desk Officer visit. So we couldn’t show her the work we do at the nursery. We did still take Kate to TST, however, and showed her where we live. It was really great to see her again and give her our feedback on our year so far.

Kate’s visit happened to be right after my parents came to Malawi. After I met my Mum and Dad in Lilongwe, we spent two nights in Central Malawi at the Tongole Wilderness Lodge – luxury with a capital L. An entire ‘River Suite’ to myself, complete with a bath the size of a small swimming pool. The lodge was built near an elephant river crossing, so it was not uncommon to see elephants going for a dip. I even got to see a wild leopard tortoise! Since I’ve been fascinated by tortoises for as long as I can remember, it was definitely the highlight of the trip. I then took my parents to Blantyre to show them around, before we went down to spend two nights at a tea estate in an area called Thyolo (Cho-low). It was hard saying goodbye to my family knowing I wouldn’t see them for another 4 months, but my current mantra is ‘less to go than has already been’.

Our friends who we used to refer to as the ‘Nancholi girls’ have all moved out of Nancholi. It is the nearest village to Baluti so we could really easily see them, as they were only a 30 minute walk away. However, as Matilda has moved in with some friends she works with and Steph has gone home to England, Georgia has moved in with Lou and me. It’s really nice to have her around, and she also shows her gratitude towards us by buying us doughnuts and jelly beans. J Georgia will be leaving us soon, however, to go back to the orphanage so volunteers at in Tanzania. It will be really hard to see her go – the ‘Nancholi’ girls have been our closest friends while we’ve been out here and she will be sorely missed.

This Easter Sunday, Georgia and I went with Louise to church. She goes to a Pentecostal Church in Blantyre that also runs a project for street children that Louise helps out with. I’ve always said that I could come along just for that, but when I looked in and saw a tonne of kids who had run away from TST, it was so demoralising. These are children who couldn’t take living in an institution, because of the routine or the rules or any other restriction that they don’t have to deal with on the streets. I tried to convince each of them to come back, but they all had ‘good’ reasons for leaving and couldn’t be swayed. It won’t stop me trying, though.

Speaking of TST, we’ve been pretty busy this week with the kids being off school. The kids just shout ‘MASAMU’ (Maths) as soon as they see us nowadays and we are often swamped from the minute we get there until the minute we leave. It’s such a contrast from the first 6 months – it makes me wish we had had only been spending the afternoons there from the beginning. At least next year’s volunteers will find it a bit easier to find their feet with our advice.

This week has been tough water and security-wise, but we should get it sorted before I next write a blog post. However, this month I did find a chitenje I’ve been looking for since I came to Malawi, which was great. I was so happy, it was unreal. The simple pleasures…

I know I joked that I would hopefully get another video of the house up before April… but I have failed. I apologise. It’s been a busy month etc. etc., but the main reason is that I hate editing and I couldn’t be bothered. HOWEVER, I do have some adorable pictures of our new kittens (well, 7 month old cats) called Lightning and Mantha (Chichewa for cowardly). ENJOY

Okay, I will do a blog post in 2 weeks. I have told you now, so I actually have to follow through with it. Otherwise, you must all berate me and make me feel small.

TTFN

(Btw, everyone who hasn’t already should watch Pitch Perfect – it’s hilarious. Other films I have watched this month that I recommend are Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, Taken (because it’s hysterical) and Amelie. That is all.)

I made my Dad a video for his birthday that we 

intended to feature the kittens wearing party hats. 

They didn't make the cut.

 ^ This is a spikey cucumber

                      Tongole Wilderness Lodge

Huntingdon House on Satemwa Tea Estate

It's March now.

10/3/13

(I was busy concentrating on my university accommodation when I typed this up, so apologies for lack of interesting material or emotion.)

It’s week… 28? Something like that.

I’m starting to get used to going to Nama Simba every day – to look forward to it, even. The children are challenging, but what’s life without a little challenge? It also means we are more likely to get Nama Simba nsima – as long as there’s no fish. The children love our company, asking for the ‘round and round the garden’ rhyme so often that I am officially sick of it. I get them to count to ten, spin them around, like in ballroom dancing, I tickle them to make them stop crying: it’s less mentally demanding than TST, but a bit more physically strenuous.

TST has been busy – lots of teaching. This week Juniyo came to me after school with a sheet of paper on which he had drawn out hundreds of dots so that we could play the paper game again. I like to think he hadn’t been doing this while he should have been working in class… There are a couple of new children, which always means we have more to do as they haven’t been placed in school yet.  Brian and Ben are 6 and 8 respectively – and absolute cuties. On Thursday, we went with William to buy some mosquito nets with the money my Dad raised from his sponsored run. A gift all the more poignant as Dad has been told he has knackered his joints and can’t run anymore! Well, the kids really appreciate your pain, Dad – Malaria is a serious problem in Malawi and the nets will make such a big difference.

We also got our first mail for over a month this week! Due to strikes, the mail had been delayed – we still haven’t received our monthly Project Trust newsletter for January. I always look forward to letters from my Granny, and I was able to show the kids the pictures she sent me of us on a camel over Christmas. They love seeing photos of my home or family and they’d never seen a camel before.

This time next week I will be North of Lilongwe with my parents as they are coming to visit on Friday. I can’t wait; it’s going to be great to see my family again and to see more of Malawi.

No pictures this week, coz I be borin'.

TTFN

Anecdotes

We were getting a taxi through town, (we don’t often do this, but we were out later than usual) when the taxi ran out of fuel. This is not that unusual, so the driver took a jerrycan to the local filling station, but they wouldn’t fill it for him. He then proceeded to reverse and turn around to the way we’d came. We had stopped on the dual carriage way, so we then began to coast down the wrong side of the dual carriageway towards the roundabout, with the hazards on. I truly thought this was the way I was going to die. When we ran out of downhill, the driver and some bystanders began to push us towards another filling station. Eventually we got there, got fuel, got to our final destination and, because they had been so lovely about it, asked them to pick us up 2 hours later. Not one died. This time.